Figeac and Conseillante, St Emilion and Pomerol

I sat myself between Cecile Loqmane of Chateau Figeac and Elodie Emenet of Chateau La Conseillante on purpose so I could spend the evening learning more about these two great houses of right-bank Bordeaux, esp when I knew so little beforehand.

Most of my Bordeaux tasting experience has been of the left-bank Medoc appellation (much, much larger in overall size as well as average size of vineyards and wineries; these include the four defining Bordeaux appellations Margaux, St Julien, Pauillac and St Estephe). So to have the benefit of tasting three vintages of these two top-class, distinctive properties, one from St Emilion and the other its sister appellation Pomerol, was not only tremendous pleasure but also edification.

Both properties are still proudly family-owned and are among the most renowned of their respective appellations. Figeac is unusual for Right Bank in having a virtually Left Bank proportion of Cab Sav, in addition to the Merlot and Cab Franc which are so much more typical of Right Bank, where Merlot reigns supreme.

Petrus, Pomerol’s grande dame, is 100% Merlot. La Conseillante, a fellow Pomerol, is 80% Merlot and 20% Cab Franc, which was immediately evident in its velvet tannins and voluptuous mouthfeel.

Standouts were ’86 Figeac which, with its remarkable freshness and sprightly acidity combined with a dried apricot/prune edge of sweetness hinting of dried fig even, made it a perfect pairing for the cheeses.

’10 Conseillante was like a Tschaikovsky ballet in a glass; passionate elegance in a tightly-structured laser focus of intense yet balanced flavour and a multidimensional lingering finish. And at only 7 years of age it’s only just getting started!

Fab convos flowed freely all night long, including the impatience of drinkers nowadays leading to their premature and ignorant denial to self on the true capacity of pleasure that these wines that are built for stamina, patience, and appreciation of complexity and nuance can truly offer in good time.

A close application of mindfulness can offer all kinds of benefits in deepening that pleasure even here.

#wine #winetasting #finedining #dinner #sharing #passion #learning #hobby

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